Finding Westbrook Wine Farm in the foothills of Madera County is like stumbling upon Willy Wonka’s factory, but for adults who prefer grapes fermented and bottled.

I recently spent a day with Ray Krause, the mastermind behind Westbrook, and let me tell you, this guy’s got more stories than a library and wit to match. He’s been in the wine biz longer than Keith Richards has been defying medical science, and he’s got the charisma of a televangelist selling salvation in a bottle.

“This is my 61st year in this business, and I’m this close to getting it right,” Ray quipped, grinning like a Cheshire cat who just found the key to the dairy. The man started his winemaking journey at 18, got his enology degree from Fresno State in 1963, and hasn’t looked back since. Well, except to crack open his old textbook 30 years later.

“Who knew? Look at all this good information!” he joked. I’m telling you, this guy’s been learning longer than some wines have been aging.

Jurassic Park of Grapes

Now, Westbrook’s not your run-of-the-mill vineyard, it’s a viticultural Jurassic Park. But instead of resurrecting dinosaurs, Ray’s bringing back the eight original red grape varieties approved in Bordeaux back in 1855. He’s running a witness protection program for endangered grapes.

Ray and his wife Tammy spent a decade searching for the perfect spot to plant their vineyards. They finally settled on a place at about 1,300 feet elevation, probably because Ray figured the higher up you go, the closer you are to the wine gods. Or maybe he just likes the view.

Their approach to winemaking is about as traditional as a flip phone at an Apple store. They co-ferment their grapes, letting the vineyard decide what the wine will be each year.

“There’s a symbiosis that happens when things co-ferment that just never happens when you blend separate finished wines,” Ray explained, sounding like a hippie scientist who’s found the key to universal harmony in a wine barrel.

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Quality Control: The Krause Way

Speaking of barrels, Ray’s commitment to quality is so intense, it makes Gordon Ramsay look like he’s running a hot dog stand. He doesn’t even check sugar content when harvesting. Instead, he looks for “physiological signs” in the vine. I’m half expecting him to whip out a tiny stethoscope and start taking grape pulse rates.

But winemaking isn’t all sunshine and rainbows, Rays is weathering a storm while holding a glass of Merlot. He’s faced his share of challenges, from killer frosts to raccoons and coyotes. “We trapped raccoons and let them loose at the neighbor’s place,” Ray laughed. Raccoons: the original party crashers of the animal kingdom.

The 2022 frost was brutal, wiping out both vineyards faster than a celebrity’s career after a bad tweet. But like a true champion, the vineyard bounced back stronger in 2023. Westbrook is the botanical version of Rocky Balboa.

Sustainability is the name of the game at Westbrook. The vineyard uses drip irrigation and minimal water, treating the vines like teenagers — keeping them alive but not too comfortable. The winery itself is greener than Kermit the Frog at a St. Patrick’s Day parade, with earth-berm walls and a closed-loop thermal transfer system that would make Elon Musk jealous.

The Westbrook Wine Lineup: A Tasting Tour

Let’s take a stroll through Westbrook’s wine list, shall we? We’ve got Krause as our guide, serving up wisdom drier than his Blanc de Noir.

Blanc de Noir: This 100% Barbera beauty is pinker than a flamingo’s blush but drier than my humor after a long day. Ray warns, “When you see a pink wine, the first thing you think is, ‘Oh, it’s gonna be sweet.’ No, we don’t make any sweet table wines.”

Malmsey Dearest: Holy mother of fortified wines, Batman! This Madeira-style masterpiece is the Methuselah of Westbrook’s cellar. Made from Malvasia Bianca grapes, it spent a decade in a building hotter than a politician’s seat in an election year. Ray explains, “We left it for 10 years, and it went through 10 95-degree summers.” The result? A wine with more complexity than a Rubik’s Cube and more patience than a Buddhist monk. It’s got notes of caramelized pecan and blood orange — it’s practically breakfast in a glass!

Le Derriere Rouge: This old vine Zinfandel is Ray’s middle finger to pretentious wine culture. Named “Le Derriere Rouge” because gimmicky labels give Ray “the red ass,” it’s smoother than a con man’s pitch and more authentic than a Kardashian’s… well, anything. It’s the wine equivalent of that cool uncle who doesn’t try too hard but still outshines everyone at family gatherings.

Sangiovese: This wine’s got a backstory more intriguing than a John le Carré novel. Made from vines planted in 1937, the cuttings were smuggled in Grandpa Salai’s suitcase. I’m pretty sure that violates some customs laws, but hey, I’m not complaining. It pairs with garlic-heavy Italian food like peanut butter pairs with jelly, or like politicians pair with scandals.

Barbera: This wine is more versatile than a Swiss Army knife at a Boy Scout jamboree. Ray boasts it can grow in all five macro regions and still make great wine. The chameleon of the wine world, adapting faster than a tech CEO during a congressional hearing.

Petit Sirah: This wine is trickier to handle than a greased pig at a county fair. Ray warns about its “chalky acid” and high tannins, saying, “Too much of a good thing can be a problem.” The result? A wine richer than Bezos and more complex than a Tolkien novel.

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The Future of Westbrook: A Unique Proposition

As our day wound down, Ray dropped a bombshell: they’re planning to sell the property. But in true Ray fashion, it’s not your average sale. “It’ll be an asset sale. If they want to be a winery, there’s no charge for the vineyard. They have to buy the inventory and can pay for it as they sell it,” he explained.

Despite the impending sale, Ray’s legacy will live on. His commitment to quality, sustainability, and innovation has left a mark on the industry deeper than the tan lines on a Napa Valley tourist. The man is like the Yoda of wine — wise, dedicated, and probably able to lift a barrel with his mind.

A Toast to Westbrook

As I left Westbrook, with a few bottles tucked safely in my car (for research purposes, of course), I couldn’t help but feel I’d been part of something special. Ray Krause and Westbrook Wine Farm are true originals in a world that too often settles for the vinous equivalent of elevator music.

About the Author

GV Wire Producer Dean Kirkland is the founder and director of Gas and Gears, an independent film production company that has produced numerous television series and feature films, including the award-winning documentary “Racing Through The Forest” (2014).